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Stand Proud Crochet Pattern

Writer's picture: womanwalkingawirewomanwalkingawire
46 minutes ago6 min read



This pattern is for your personal use and the contents are my original work, do not share any portions of this pattern in any form for others to use. You are 100% free to sell any physical items made with this pattern. Please tag me @womanwalkingawire in any social media posts of items made with this pattern or link the pattern.


 

Materials

4mm Crochet Hook

2 Stitch Markers

Yarn Needle

Scissors

Worsted Weight Yarn in colors listed below...

Yarn Colors

Optional Materials


The original bunting I made, lived outside and over the course of a year it started to curl in on itself. So, when I decided to write this pattern, I really wanted something that could stand up to the elements and be more durable. 

The dowels I’m using are plain wooden craft dowels that are 1/8-inch thick & 12-inches long. They can easily be substituted with something similar in structure like; kabob skewers or wires.  

The wire cutters/diagonal cutting pliers are for trimming the ends of the dowels.   

The wide hole beads need to have an opening big enough to fit over the dowel (but not too much bigger). The glue is to hold them in-place (I used Krazy Glue from Dollar Tree) so the piece won’t slide off the ends when the excess dowel is trimmed off the sides. The pencil/pen is for marking the dowel for trimming. 

If you do plan to block the piece, block before adding the beads and trimming the dowel ends. I use a foam blocking mat and T-pins to set it in place and a handheld steamer. This step also helps to straighten out the fringe before trimming as well.  

You can absolutely add-on to the materials and make your Progress Pride Flag Bunting really special. Strings of beads, crystals or colorful strips of fabric can be strung from the sides of the dowels or the bottom row with the fringe.  

The dowel & beads are optional, you can make the bunting without. If you aren’t going to use a dowel, you might consider using a stiffening mixture, this is optional as well.


 

Abbreviations - US Crochet Terms


  • Rnd – Round 

  • FO – Fasten Off 

  • SM – Stitch Marker 

  • MR – Magic Ring 

  • Ch – Chain 

  • ChSp – Chain Space 

  • SlSt – Slip Stitch 

  • SC – Single Crochet 

  • HDC – Half Double Crochet 

  • DC – Double Crochet 

  • EDC – Extended Double Crochet 

  • TR – Treble Crochet 

  • ETR – Extended Treble Crochet 


 

Notes:

  • When a round starts with a new color, I use Standing Stitches. This is why you won’t see me instructing you to start with chains. You can start with a chain of equivalent height if you prefer (HDC=Ch2, DC=Ch3, EDC/TR=Ch4), but I think the Standing Stitch looks best. See Recommended Resources for videos on how to make Standing Stitches. 

  • Chains between stitches do not count in the Stitch Count of a Round unless otherwise directed or noted! They are Chain Spaces (ChSps).  

  • Why do I tell you ‘JOIN’ at the end of some Rounds? It’s my personal preference to make an Invisible Join when I Fasten Off (FO) because I think it looks cleaner. You can choose to do whichever method you prefer. See Recommended Resources for videos on how to make an Invisible Join. 

  • Watch out on the corners of the triangle, they are irregular corners. Meaning there are combinations of stitch heights in the corner ChSps.


 

If you would like a printable version of this pattern, it is free in my Ravelry shop.

 

Please tag me on social if you are posting after making this project! It's the best part of my day seeing what's made with my patterns!

Rnd 1- With Yellow; 

From MR; Ch 3 (Counts as 1st DC), 

11 DC into MR, join to 1st St & FO (12 Sts) 



Rnd 2- With Purple – Begin in any St; 

2 SC in each St around, join to 1st St & FO (24 Sts) 



Rnd 3- With Yellow – Begin in any St; 

EDC in 1st St, DC next 3 Sts, 

Working over next 2 Sts; DC2TOG, 

EDC into next,  

TR/ETR-Ch2-ETR/TR into next St, 

EDC & DC into next St, 

HDC into next, SC next 3 Sts, 

HDC into next, 

DC & EDC into next St, 

TR/ETR-Ch2-ETR/TR into next St, 

EDC into next,  

Working over next 2 Sts; DC2TOG, 

DC next 3 Sts, EDC into next, 

EDC-Ch2-EDC into next St (This ChSp is the top point of the triangle), 

SlSt in 1st St to join, do not FO (31 Sts) 



Rnd 4- Beginning in same St; 

SC next 8 Sts, 

HDC/DC-Ch2-EDC/DC into ChSp, 

HDC into next, SC next 11 Sts, HDC into next, 

DC/EDC-Ch2-DC/HDC into ChSp, 

SC next 9 Sts, 

HDC-Ch2-HDC into ChSp, 

SC into next, 

Join to 1st St & FO (41 Sts) 



Rnd 5- With White – Begin in top ChSp; 

HDC-Ch2-HDC into ChSp, 

SC next 12 Sts, 

SC/HDC-Ch2-DC/HDC into ChSp,  

HDC into next, SC next 15 Sts, HDC into next, 

HDC/DC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next 12 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (51 Sts) 



Rnd 6- With Light Pink – Begin in Top ChSp; 

2HDC-Ch2-2HDC into ChSp, 

SC next 15 Sts, 

SC/HDC-Ch2-DC into ChSp (place SM in ChSp), 

HDC into next, SC next 19 Sts, HDC into next, 

DC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next 15 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (61 Sts) 



Rnd 7- With Light Blue – Begin in Marked ChSp; 

SC/HDC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next 23 Sts, 

SC/HDC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next19 Sts, 

HDC-Ch2-HDC into ChSp, 

SC next 19 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (71 Sts) 



Rnd 8- With Brown – Begin in Top ChSp; 

SC/HDC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next 22 Sts, 

SC/HDC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp (place SM in ChSp), 

SC next 27 Sts, 

SC/HDC-Ch2-HDC/SC into ChSp, 

SC next 22 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (83 Sts) 



Rnd 9- With Black – Begin in Marked ChSp; 

3 SC into ChSp, 

SC next 31 Sts, 

3 SC into ChSp, 

SC next 26 Sts, 

SC-Ch2-SC into ChSp, 

SC next 26 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (91 Sts) 



Rnd 10- With White – Begin in ChSp; 

SC-Ch20-SC into ChSp, 

SC next 28 Sts, 

3 SC into next St (begin working over dowel in 2nd of these 3 Sts & place SM in 3rd St), 

SC next 33 Sts, 

3 SC into next St (stop working over dowel after completing the 2nd of these 3 Sts), 

SC next 28 Sts, 

Join to 1st St & FO (97 Sts) 


Working over the dowel.
Working over the dowel.






Row 1- Beginning in Marked St; 

With Red- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Orange- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Yellow- DC next 6 Sts, 

Beginning in same St as last Yellow St (see photo); 

With Green- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Blue- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Violet- DC next 6 Sts, 

Do not FO any colors (36 Sts) 






Note: For the next 8 Rows, the Ch 3 will count as your 1st DC.  

Make color changes as you complete the last St of the previous color, drop the previous color to the wrong side of the work & leave it to pick back up on the next Row. 


Row 2- With Violet- Ch 3 & turn, DC next 5 Sts, 

With Blue- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Green- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Yellow- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Orange- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Red- DC next 6 Sts, 

Do not FO any colors (36 Sts) 



Row 3- With Red- Ch 3 & turn, DC next 5 Sts, 

With Orange- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Yellow- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Green- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Blue- DC next 6 Sts, 

With Violet- DC next 6 Sts, 

Do not FO any colors (36 Sts) 


Rows 4-9: Continue alternating Rows 2 & 3 until you reach Row 9 (or your desired length) & FO



Cut 6 lengths of each color yarn at approximately 12-inches each for fringe & attach to the bottom of each St of the last Row with the coordinating color. 

Pin the piece to the blocking mat with T-pins & block the bunting using the handheld steamer. 

When dry, trim fringe evenly across. 

Slide large hole beads over dowel on either side and with pencil/pen mark on dowel where they end. 

Remove beads and with wire cutter or diagonal cutting pliers, trim excess wood off the sides of the dowel just before mark. Glue beads onto ends of dowel. 

Hang up your bunting and enjoy! 









Now go find a spot to hang this with Pride!


 
 
 

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